The Ultimate guide to the perfect white button down

If you know me you know I absolutely have a thing for a white button down. It’s a staple. It’s a go to. It’s a must have for every wardrobe no matter what the season.

The White Button Guide

Every closet needs at least 2

Today there are so many variations of the white collared shirt that it can literally carry you through every season when purchased correctly. I easily have 7 in my closet now and none of them look the same. It can be layered, stand alone, or even worn as a dress. But how do you find the right one? What components go into making the fit work? Here are my 7 steps to choosing the right one for you….no matter what your body type.

Off the shoulder —- perfect for brunch or date night — From Zara

1. Collar —- I LOVE a good collar. A strong collar gives structure and for some of us elongates the neck where needed. When trying on your shirt you want to give the two finger test. This means if you were to button the top button two fingers should fit in between your neck and the collar for comfortability. This will allow you space to breath, move, and swallow. If you can fit more than two fingers it will be very likely that the shirt is going to be too big in other areas as well.

   It is also important to not the structure and strength of the collar. When I use the term “strong collar”, I am referring to how the collar folds and sits on the collar bone. I hate a damn flimsy collar that you keep having to re-tuck or fold. Yes this can be achieved by starch, but if it didn’t from good stock it is likely not going to get there. For these shirts I typically use Banana Republic.. they have the best lasting variety in my book.

2. Arm Length — When choosing arm length I consider two things my accessories and roll up ability. I am a cuffer, meaning I often do a J. Crew roll on my sleeves depending on my accessories or activity level. But some sleeves are just not cuff-able. (Why is this starting to sound like I’m describing a man,LOL) They wont stay, they slide down, or they are too tight and uncomfortable. The material of the shirt will make the difference here. A stronger more pliable material will support in a good cuff.

   In terms of arm length for fit a quality fitting shirt should stop just before the wrist. You are looking for a fit that leaves spaces for your watch and possibly bracelets. The shirt should not be able to be taken off without unbuttoning the buttons. Two key things here…..you should be unbuttoning to take off and there should definitely be buttons! A quality shirt will have buttons and when you want to get spicy, some shirts will have special buttons that really accentuate the details and determine the appropriate accessory.

Two fingers of collar space.

A strong collar stands on its on.

3. The Shoulder Seam — The shoulder seam is the stitching that connects the body of the shirt to the sleeves. For a proper fit this seam should sit at the end of the shoulder. This rule is true with all of your shirts by the way. A proper fitting shirt will have this seam aligning directly with where your arm folds at the shoulder. This happens before the shirt rounds and goes down. If the seam is off then the fit is either wrong in the sleeve or short in the torso.

4. The Side Seam — The side seam is along your torso. It should sit close enough to the armpit but doesn’t touch it. This will dictate your movement comfortability in your arms. Too tight here will dictate ill fit in other places. When you try on a shirt bend your arms and move them to see this seam at work.

5. Length — The overall length of your shirt is strictly your desecration. When deciding think about layering, think about tucking, and think about your torso length. With both arms raised your shirt should not come above the top of the pant.

6. Bust -- The bust is going to be the most important and difficult fit area for some of you. I do not have the struggle but I empathize. This is may very well be where you need to enlist your tailor. Now if you want the girls out for air that is certainly your prerogative but from a structural fit stand point if the buttons are screaming it ain’t meeting. The space pop out where we can see your cleavage anyway is unappealing and simply ill fitting. So what do you do….. the answer may be to go one size up and see your tailer. The second option would be to look for shirts with larger buttons. This will take up the space where gaps may be and distract the eye back to the rest of your outfit.

7. Back — The back of the shirt is going to be connected to the bust of the shirt. If you are on the smaller side like me, a tailor is also going to be your best option because too much space can show as well. Both areas are easy fixes and can be costumed to just you by most tailors. The way to check this fit is if arms are crossed over each other there should still be a slight bit of slack, or space. This will be helpful also when layering your button down.